L'Etape California: A Brutish Beauty Up Mt. Baldy

I don't mean to sound hubristic but as what I can only imagine as one of the few people who has undertaken four different Etape events, I count myself as somewhat of an Etape expert. The L'Etape California would be my first ASO event in North America, after undertaking the London, Wales, and original Tour de France versions previously.

Given that the Wales and Tour editions rank as number one and two on my all time list of toughest rides, I knew that my trip around the mountains just north of L.A. was going to be a big day in the saddle.

The Etape events are run by ASO which is the company that organizes the Tour de France. The aim of the gran fondos is to inspire the feeling of the Tour with rides in stunning locations the world over. They also have reputation for being tough. The original, Etape du Tour, takes place annually, and the route is normally a stage from that year's Tour de France in either the Alps or the Pyrenees. Etape events now take part all around the world, from Costa Rica to Australia to South Africa to Japan.

L'Etape California matches its French counterpart in the sense it has a route that mirrors one from the region's major race. This year it was Stage 5 of the Tour of California From Ontario, CA to the Mt Baldy Ski Station. In between these two points riders would endure 74 miles, 11,000ft of climbing, and three Cat 1 or worse climbs.

This was certainly not a route for the faint-hearted and unlike other gran fondos that have multiple routes, the Etape has just one, and what a brute it was.

The ride began in a dusty airport in Ontario; a cool staging area for the start of a big ride. The gaggle of small aircraft, mixed with the sun rising over the intimidating San Gabriel Mountains to the north made the setting quite evocative. After collecting race numbers, being herded into our starting pens, and enjoying a rousing rendition of both the French and American national anthems we were off to a neutralized start.

Now, leading the front of the rather sizeable 600-person pack was a police motorcade and a group of pro and former pro riders, which included Team Jelly Belly, Phil Gaimon (Formerly of Team Cannondale), and Jens Voigt (Formerly of Trek). The pros and a group of very strong riders led the pack pack north to the beginning of the first climb. Here, the police escort pulled off and the heat was on. That was the last time I saw the pros as they almost instantaneously disappeared up the mountain.

The first climb proved to be deceptively difficult. I looked at the 5.5% average over 5.7 miles pre ride and thought "that doesn't sound difficult." I was wrong. Two short but quick downhill sections in the middle of the climb suppressed the average gradient and in the second part of the climb the gradient hung around the 11% mark. This was right out of the starting blocks and a sign of the tough roads ahead.

After this first climb was out of the way, the most enjoyable and picturesque part of the ride got underway. This was helped by the fact that it was more or less downhill for a good 30 miles. The route from Mt Baldy down to the San Gabriel River was one of the most beautiful I have ever ridden. Stunning views over the entirety of Anaheim and L.A. sprawled out ahead of you to the south while to the north giant, tree-covered valleys and mountains continued off into the distance. The descent was a great one too, with technical bends followed by long and straight sections that allowed you to get low and reach some thunderous top speeds.

It was all smiles at this point and everyone was having a great day. Not for long. Once the route turned onto Glendora Mountain Road the pleasant chit chat halted and the grind began. From here it roughly 30 miles of climbing and tough climbing at that.

The second of the three categorized climbs was the longest of the day at 7.7 miles and with the midday heat it was certainly up there in terms of difficulty. Still, the views remained beautiful and the rather peculiar sight of a stunt plane doing loop-the-loops high in the sky gave me a surreal distraction from the suffering.

At the top of the climb came a much needed food station. I have to say the whole event was extremely well supported and you certainly get your money's worth when it comes to nutritional, technical, and medical support. The food stops were fully stocked with Powerbar products as well as the usually selection of bananas, cookies and drink.

The real test started after this feed stop at mile marker 48. The next 15 or so miles offered a grueling uncategorized climb with long stretches around six percent in gradient. It was on this stretch that you started to see the real suffering on other rider's faces. The thousand yard stare, gritted teeth, and silence punctuated by chains whirring and heavy breathing marked the time when rider's (myself included) had to give it our all. As a recreational riders there are not too many times when you experience this feeling on the bike; the feeling of true exhaustion. After the final feed station, where riders gulped down coke and water as they lay in the shade, it was time for the final ramp up to Mt. Baldy.

Putting this climb at the end of an already challenging day elevated it from a nine on the pain scale to a ten. Again the average gradient given on the route sheet was deceptive. Mt. Baldy was listed as a 4.5 mile climb at an 8.5% average. The first two and a half mile stayed at a steady 6% so I knew that the second half was going to be brutish. And brutish it was. Leg and spirit breaking hairpins led you all the way up to the finish where well-earned medals, beer and sandwiches were handed out.

If you are not a keen cyclist and you are reading this you are probably wondering, "why would anyone do this, it doesn't sound fun." Pushing oneself right up to the limits is what cycling is all about. Being so deep in the proverbial pain cave that that you can see the back and there is very little light coming in the front is what grants one an amazing sense of accomplishment at the finish line.

For the likes of Team Jelly Belly, Phil Gaimon, and Jens Voigt the Etape will be just another slightly arduous training ride and that is humbling for all of us amateurs that finished when these guys were back at home with their feet up. For the rest of us though this will be a ride that defines our year and reinvigorates our passion in pedalling. Don't believe me? Ask any finishing rider from the event and I guarantee they will already be planning their next grand day out. Suffering is temporary, glory lasts forever.

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